One of the things I would have liked to have known more about, before graduating, is the different roles that are available within a wardrobe department and what those roles actually mean. This would have really helped me to not only apply to the correct roles but to have had a much better understanding of the department when I did finally get my first job. Obviously the roles are going to vary depending on the individual organisation and production but I have tried to round up and explain as many of them as I can. Not every production or organisation will need all these roles and they will vary in contract lengths, some may be freelance and some might be contracted. Always research a job and organisation before applying.
Head of Wardrobe/ Wardrobe Manager
Head of Wardrobe manages the running of the department. They oversea all the wardrobe elements of a production, this can include pre-production, backstage and post production. They will organise staffing, scheduling, budgets, equipment and stock. In a regional theatre, Head of Wardrobe may also supervise individual productions however in West End and Touring theatre it is likely to be a separate Superviser.
Deputy Wardrobe
Deputy wardrobe supports and assists the Head of Wardrobe, taking on a variety of jobs that may need extra time and attention. Again, in some theatres the deputy may also supervise productions.
Costume Designer
The Costume designer designs all the costumes for a production. Very often they can also be the set designer. The designer will have the final aesthetic say, however they work collaboratively with the rest of the team.
Wardrobe Supervisor
A supervisor is in charge of sourcing and supplying all the costumes needed for a production. This can include making, hiring or buying the costumes. They will work closely with the designer to make sure all their designs are brought to life correctly as well as Head of Wardrobe to make sure the costumes can work smoothly for all the cast backstage. They also need to liaise with any makers for the show to pass on designs and fabrics and attend any costume fittings. The supervisor will have a budget they need to stick to.
Assistant Supervisor
Assisting the supervisor with any extra support to source all the costumes and set up the show.
Head Cutter/Workroom Supervisor
A show that involves a lot of makes and alterations will set up a workroom specifically to achieve the work required. Obviously in a producing theatre there might already be a designated space and team. The Workroom supervisor delegates the workload and manages the team to make sure all work is completed on time.
Cutter
Cutters are required to pattern draft using the designers designs and referances. They will then cut the fabric using the patterns they have created. Some Cutters will sew up their work but in some workrooms it may be passed on to an assistant to sew, under their guidance. Cutters will be required to attend any fittings to make sure all costumes fit correctly and the performers are happy.
Wardrobe Assistant
In a workroom, wardrobe assistants will be required to do a lot of sewing. This may be sewing up makes or altering existing costumes. On tour or West End a Wardrobe Assistant will help to look after the costumes, maintaining them at a high standard. Depending on the role or production, assistants may be required to do a range of tasks including laundry, maintenance, repairs and dressing.
Breaking Down/Dyer
Once a costume is made or bought there is still lots that needs to be done before going on stage. This includes any breaking down (to make it look worn and used) or more specific effects like blood and oil. This is a vital part of the characters story telling. The Breaking Down artist is able to add these effects using dye, fabric paints, bleach and lots of other equipment such as sandpaper or cheese graters!
Milliner
Milliners specialise in hats and headwear. This is a specialised skill but needs to be done collaboratively with the costume team so that any headwear works cohesively with the rest of the costumes. Like a cutter they will follow the designers designs to create their work.
Dresser
Dressers work backstage on productions to maintain the quality of the costumes during a run. They will devise a dressing plot that they follow during every performance. This will include pre-setting all the costumes from the top of the show, assist the performers with any quick changes during the show and collecting any laundry at the end of the show.
Head Dresser
The Head Dresser will oversea the dressing team. They will attend production rehearsals to understand the running of the show and assist dressers with choreographing their own personal dressing plots.
Swing Dresser
Swing dressers will learn several of the dressing plots so they can stand in if a dresser is not available to do their plot.
Maintenance
Once a show is up and running the costumes need maintaning so they can remain at the quality they started in. This involves general repairs and laundry. Head of Wardrobe will usually create a maintenance schedule.
Costume Administrator
On very large scale productions the role of "supervisor" may be broken into other roles as it's too much for one person to look after. A Costume Administrator can take on some of these roles such as finding staff, controlling the budget, organising purchases, schedules and meetings whilst the supervisor may concentrate on other aspects such as design, sourcing materials and attending fittings. This is going to vary from production to production so I have tried to give some examples to help explain the role.
Costume Buyer
Costume buyers help source and purchase costumes for a production. They will support the superviser in finding all the items needed. They will work closely with the designer to make sure they understand the design brief.
Assistant Costume Buyer
Supports the Costume Buyer with work load.
Head of Alterations
Some productions require a department specifically to perform all the costume alterations after fittings. This team will be managed by Head of Alterations. They will liaise with the supervisor to make sure all the notes from fittings have been correctly communicated.
Costume Hire
Costume Hires departments are invaluable to theatres. Very often budgets do not allow for huge quantities of new costumes to be made and so a theatre will hire from an external organisation. It is also better for the environment and reduces waste.
I have tried to sum up these roles as best I can. I have gone into as much detail as I can but every department is going to have slightly different roles with different responsibilities. If you are interested in any specific roles please do reach out to someone who does it for more info. Which is your dream role?
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